The Complete Guide to Hermès Date Stamps: History, Evolution & What They Really Mean
When it comes to luxury handbags, Hermès stands in a league of its own. Known for meticulous craftsmanship, limited production, and quiet luxury, each Hermès bag tells a story. But how can you date that story?
The answer lies in a small but powerful detail: the Hermès date stamp.
🧾 What Is a Hermès Date Stamp?
A Hermès date stamp is a small, often subtle, marking stamped into the leather of bags, wallets, and other leather goods. It indicates the year of production — not a serial number or model code.
The date stamp:
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Is usually embossed inside the bag (near the interior pocket or on the strap for Birkins and Kellys)
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Can fade over time, especially on vintage lambskin or box calf leather
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Was initially created for internal tracking, but today it’s used for authentication and dating
Since 1945, Hermès has included date codes on its leather goods — mainly handbags — to indicate the year of production. These date stamps don’t serve as unique serial numbers. Instead, they use letters (and sometimes symbols) to represent a specific year.
📜 Why Do Date Stamps Matter?
In a world of increasing counterfeits and rising resale value, identifying a bag’s production year is critical. Date stamps:
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Help confirm authenticity
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Allow buyers to verify seller claims
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Provide context for pricing, rarity, and condition
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Offer a timeline for material and color trends
For Hermès bags with no receipt or box, the date stamp is the next best reference.
🛠 Where to Find the Stamp
Each bag model may have the stamp in a slightly different location:
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Birkin / Kelly: Usually behind the strap or inside flap
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Evelyne: Near the inner seam
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Wallets / SLGs: Inside the main compartment or corner lining
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Vintage bags: Stamps may be faded or entirely worn off
Pro tip: Use a flashlight and magnifier — stamps can be very faint, especially on aged leather.
📆 A Breakdown of Hermès Date Stamp Eras
Hermès uses alphabetical coding, progressing one letter each year — with occasional skipped letters. But the format of the stamp has changed over time.
Let’s explore the four main eras:
1. 1945–1970: The Early Letter Years (No Shape)
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Format: A single letter (A to Z), no border or shape
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Example: A = 1945, B = 1946, and so on
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Placement: Usually stamped near the interior lining
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No logos, no craftsman’s marks — just the letter
This was a pre-internet, pre-authentication era, so the date stamp wasn’t meant for customers. Bags from this period are incredibly rare and often have faint or missing stamps due to age and leather patina.
2. 1971–1996: The Circle Era
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Format: Letter inside a circle
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Example: Ⓚ = 1980, Ⓞ = 1984, Ⓥ = 1991
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Introduction of standardisation and improved visibility
During these years, Hermès began formalising the production process and materials. Most vintage Kelly bags from the 70s and 80s will carry this style of stamp.
The circle served as a design element to help distinguish eras and was used consistently for 25 years.
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Date Stamp:
Uin a circle , Year: 1991 -
Stamp Shape: Circle (used from 1971–1996)
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The numbers
27and14refer to the atelier (workshop) and artisan code. -
The
Pmay indicate a specific quality control or internal marker. -
Clear example of how multiple codes were used even in the earlier years.
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3. 1997–2014: The Square Era
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Format: Letter inside a square
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Example: 🄱 = 1998, 🄷 = 2004, 🄻 = 2008
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Introduced at the same time as growing global popularity
This is the era when Birkin bags went mainstream, and Hermès expanded internationally. Date stamps became a key point in authenticating secondhand pieces, with resellers and collectors now recognising stamp styles as a dating method.
The square replaced the circle, marking a new era of modernisation at the house.
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Date Stamp:
Min a square Year: 2009 -
Stamp Shape: Square (used from 1997–2014)
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This is a classic date stamp located on the strap of the bag.
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The number before the letter (
56A) likely refers to the craftsman's code and internal workshop number. -
A common layout on Birkin and Kelly bags from this era.
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4. 2015–2020: Return to Letter-Only Format
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Format: A standalone capital letter, without shapes
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Example: T = 2015, X = 2016, A = 2017, etc.
This was a quieter update, but notable for being more minimalist, in line with Hermès’ refined identity. By this point, handbag authentication had gone digital — and so did the brand’s internal systems.
Buyers in the secondhand market became more dependent on both stamps and additional quality indicators like stitching, color codes, and craftsman marks.
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Date Stamp:
Uin no shape, Year: 2015 -
Stamp Shape: None (used from 2015–2021)
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Extended Code:
U AM 004 UH-
U: Year code (2015) -
AM: Artisan ID or workshop -
004: Style, order or production batch -
UH: Artisan initials or atelier code
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This longer format was introduced as part of a more complex traceability system post-2014. Common in newer generation bags.
Expert Tip: Date Stamps Are Not Enough to Prove Authenticity
We always tell our clients at Oh My Goldness:
“The stamp helps, but the bag tells the whole story.”
Counterfeiters have become increasingly good at mimicking date stamps. That’s why our team also checks:
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Stitching count and direction
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Hardware engraving and weight
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Leather texture and smell
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Interior construction and lining fit
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Zipper brand and screw type
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Craftsmanship consistency
This is why authentication should never rely solely on the presence of a date stamp.
👜 Final Thoughts — What Your Date Stamp Tells You
The Hermès date stamp is a beautiful tradition — one that reflects the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and heritage. While it may seem small, each letter carries decades of meaning, allowing collectors to understand the story of their bags.
Whether your Hermès piece carries an elegant Ⓞ, a sharp 🄹, or no stamp at all, remember this:
✨ It’s not just about when it was made —
it’s about how it was made, and by whom. ✨
And that’s what makes collecting Hermès so magical.
