By Oh My Goldness — your trusted Japan-based vintage Chanel specialists for 9 years.

We’ve authenticated thousands of Chanel bags over the past decade. One of the most common questions we receive is: “How important is the Chanel sticker?”

The answer: it’s important, but only one part of a much bigger picture.

For decades, Chanel relied on serial number stickers as part of their internal identification system. These stickers became essential clues for collectors, resellers, and authenticators, especially when evaluating vintage Chanel. But as the brand modernized, Chanel replaced both the sticker and the authenticity card with their new metal plate authentication system.

This guide — written with insights gathered from our 9 years of hands-on experience as a Japan-based licensed vintage dealer — explains everything you need to know.

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1. What Is a Chanel Sticker? (Chanel Serial Number Basics)

A Chanel sticker is a small identification label placed discreetly inside a bag or SLG. For many years, it served as a supporting reference during the Chanel authentication process.

Each sticker contains:

• A unique serial number
  

• Chanel logos
  

• A hologram element (added in the 2000s)
  

• A layer of clear protective film
  

Over years of handling vintage pieces, our OMG team has seen dozens of different sticker variations — each tied to a specific production era, which helps with Chanel serial number dating.

This explains how to determine the approximate production year of a CHANEL bag based on its serial number.
This is especially important for anyone purchasing pre-owned or vintage Chanel bags, as it helps verify whether the bag’s production year matches the seller’s information.

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2. Where Chanel Places the Stickers

Depending on the model and year, stickers can be found:

• On a small leather tab
  

• Directly on the lining
  

• Deep inside pockets (especially for small leather goods)
  

All stickers are sealed with a clear protective tape layer that naturally ages over time.

• From the early 2000s to mid-2020, CHANEL bags came with a hologram serial number sticker, usually placed discreetly in one of the inner corners of the bag.

• Starting in 2021, CHANEL replaced stickers with an embedded RFID microchip, so hologram stickers are no longer used.

• CHANEL began using serial numbers in 1984, starting with 5 digits and later expanding to 8 digits.

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3. Why Chanel Stickers Age, Peel, or Change Color

After handling thousands of vintage Chanel items, we can confidently say:
sticker damage is normal — and extremely common.

Over time, stickers may:

• Peel or curl
  

• Turn yellow or slightly purple
  

• Crack or wrinkle
  

• Fall off completely
  

This aging is especially common in humid climates like Japan and Hong Kong — something we see often at Oh My Goldness’s Tokyo warehouse.

A missing sticker does not mean the item is counterfeit.

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4. Why Chanel Introduced the New Metal Plate System

In 2021, Chanel transitioned away from the sticker + authenticity card model and launched their new metal plate authentication system, now used in all current-season bags.

Metal plates are:

• More durable
  

• Harder to remove
  

• More secure against counterfeiting
  

• Designed to last the lifetime of the bag
  

As professional authenticators, we’ve found these new plates significantly more stable than decades-old stickers.

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5. What the New Chanel Metal Plate Codes Mean

Here’s what we know, based on industry research + OMG in-house inspection:

✔ Each code is exactly 8 characters long

A mix of letters and numbers.

✔ Codes start with a letter

Example: A1B2C3D4.

✔ Completely unique

Like the old serial stickers, no two items share the same code.

✔ Not linked to the production year

Unlike old serial numbers, the new format does not provide year information.

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6. Stickers vs. Metal Plates — What Collectors Should Know

Vintage & Pre-2021 Bags

Will still feature the classic serial sticker. Missing stickers or lost cards are normal.

1984–1986: The First Serial Stickers (6-Digit)
Chanel introduced serial numbers in 1984 to fight counterfeiting. These early stickers had a simple 6-digit code (starting with 1), black on white, with no holograms or logos. This was also when Chanel began including matching authenticity cards. Bags made before 1984 have no serial number or card.

1986–1988: 7-Digit Serial Stickers Begin
Chanel switched to 7-digit serial numbers in 1986, often starting with 0. Stickers had a white background, black numbers, and a repeating CHANEL logo pattern. A scooped left edge and specific fonts (like serifed 1s) help identify this era. Though still no holograms or glitter, this period marked a major step in authentication, with matching black-and-gold authenticity cards introduced.

1989–1991: 7-Digit Codes with Consistent Design
Chanel continued using 7-digit serial numbers, now starting with 1. Stickers had a white background with faint CHANEL logos, a scooped left edge, and consistent typography (serifed 1s, clean 0s). Though still without holograms or glitter, this period emphasized authenticity and consistency as counterfeiting increased.

1991–1994: Subtle Design Upgrades Begin
Chanel continued with 7-digit serial numbers starting with 2. Stickers had a white background with faint CHANEL logos and switched to a uniform rectangular shape (no more scooped edge). Fonts stayed the same, with serifed 1s and clean 0s. Still no holograms or glitter, but this era showed more precision and consistency in production. Authenticity cards remained black with a gold border.

1994–1997: The Last of the Pre-Hologram Era
Chanel serial numbers now started with 3 or 4. Stickers were white with black numbers, rectangular in shape, and printed with faint CHANEL logos. No glitter or holograms yet, but typography was refined—serifed 1s, clean 0s. This era focused on consistent production and is considered the final generation before major security upgrades.

<1996-1997: 04xxxxx (7-digits) starting with 04>

1997–1999: Holograms Enter the Scene
Chanel introduced added security with its 5-series serial numbers. Stickers still had black numbers on a white background, but later versions (from 57XXXXXX) began showing two Chanel logos above the number — a first step toward layered, tamper-proof design. This era marked the beginning of holographic-style authentication.

5597359 is a 7-digit code starting with 5>

From 57XXXXXX: First Visible Security Features
Chanel added new anti-tamper elements to its serial stickers, including:
• X-cut tamper lines that tear if removed
• A dark vertical line on the left edge
• The word CHANEL printed vertically on the right
• Gold speckles and micro-glitter throughout

2000–2005: Chanel’s Signature Security Sticker
Serial numbers (starting with 6, 7, 8, or 9) came with advanced anti-counterfeit features that became Chanel’s gold standard. Stickers had:
• Two interlocking CC logos above the number
• “CHANEL” printed vertically on the right
• A dark line on the left
• Gold speckles + iridescent glitter
• X-cut tamper lines

This era marked peak consistency in Chanel’s authentication system.

<2003 or early 2004: 8773961 is an 8-digit code starting with 8>

2005–2021: 8-Digit Stickers & Peak Security
Chanel introduced 8-digit serial numbers (starting from 10XXXXXX to 31XXXXXX) to match growing production and enhance authentication.

<2005 or early 2006: 10543595 is an 8-digit serial starting with 10>

<2014 or early 2015: 20966089 is an 8-digit code starting with 20>

<2006–2007: 11966199 is an 8-digit code starting with 11>

Sticker Features:
• White sticker with black 8-digit number
• Clear overlay with:
 – Two CC logos above the number
 – “CHANEL” printed vertically (right)
 – Dark line (left)
 – Gold speckles + iridescent glitter
 – X-cut tamper lines

Typography:
• 0 has a strikethrough
• 1 has serifed feet

Authentication Cards:
Black card with gold border, matching the serial number inside the bag.

2021–Present Bags

Use the new metal plate (no authenticity card, no classic sticker).

Longevity

Metal plates are far more durable than hologram stickers.

At Oh My Goldness, we verify both — but always prioritise overall craftsmanship, not just a code.

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7. Why Stickers Or Plates Alone Cannot Authenticate a Chanel Bag

This is one of the most important parts of this guide.

While serial identifiers are useful, they are only one piece of the authentication puzzle.

At OMG, our Chanel authentication process examines:

• Stitching & stitch count
  

• Leather grain, aging behaviour, and smell
  

• Hardware weight, engraving depth, screw type
  

• Lining construction & edge finishing
  

• Interlocking CC proportions
  

• Stamp font consistency & foil technique
  

• Zipper brand (Lampo / riri / EP etc.) consistent with era
  

• Overall silhouette and build quality
  

Counterfeiters can copy stickers and even metal plates —
but they rarely copy all craftsmanship details correctly.

This is where experienced professional sellers make a difference.

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8. Many Authentic Vintage Chanel Bags Have No Sticker or Card — And That’s OK

Based on 9 years of daily operations at Oh My Goldness, we can confidently state: It is absolutely normal for authentic Chanel pieces (especially 80s–90s lambskin) to:

• Have no sticker
  

• Have damaged hologram tape
  

• Have yellowing or fading
  

• Have lost authenticity cards decades ago

  A missing sticker does not invalidate authenticity.
  A real Chanel bag is authenticated holistically — not by a single label.

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9. Final Thoughts — Choose Your Chanel Vintage Pieces Wisely

Whether your bag has:

• a curling hologram sticker,
  

• a missing authenticity card, or
  

• the latest 8-character metal plate,
  

each version represents a different chapter in Chanel’s history. But what matters most is this:

Authenticity is determined by the entire bag — not just the sticker or plate.

And this is why buying from professional, experienced, long-standing sellers is essential.

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Why Choose Oh My Goldness for Chanel Vintage?

✔ 9 years of experience
✔ Licensed Japan-based vintage dealer
✔ Thousands of Chanel authentications completed
✔ Hands-on understanding of every era’s craftsmanship
✔ Ethical sourcing & guaranteed transparency
✔ Deep expertise in vintage, serial variations, sticker aging, and modern metal plate codes

Vintage Chanel requires expertise.
 The right seller protects you from costly mistakes.

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A Final Reminder for Buyers

Stickers, cards, or metal plates are only one part of Chanel authentication. For your safety and investment value, always purchase from:

• Trusted vintage experts
  

• Japan-based licensed dealers
  

• Experienced authenticators with proven history
  

Just like Oh My Goldness.